Enrichment

Enrichment is meeting species-specific needs, and in the case of dogs, sometimes breed-specific needs. Just as we humans need books, movies, and the Sunday crossword, or a walk in the woods, dogs also need daily activities that support their emotional needs. This may vary from dog to dog, but all dogs, regardless of age, gender or breed need outlets for their genetic drives; activities that tap into their innate skills of smell, sight, hearing and the need to hunt, forage and play.

So what is mental enrichment? It’s anything that meets the dog’s innate needs. Licking, chewing, sniffing, foraging and digging are especially rewarding to dogs, so activities that include those things are the best choices. It can be a sniffy walk in nature, on a longer leash for more freedom, foraging for kibble in the grass or in boxes in the house, playing games like recall or hide and seek, or working on a puzzle toy that’s filled with food. There are many good interactive food toys on the market, and DIY options are limited only by your imagination and his desires. Daily activities that include all aspects of his genetic needs is ideal. Exercise, such as playing fetch, satisfies his need for physical motion, but doesn’t meet his need for sniffing, chewing or licking. The more the options are varied, the better.

Enrichment is not “wearing the dog out”. While mental enrichment and physical exercise do tire a dog, that’s not the goal of either. The aim of enrichment and exercise is to meet mental, emotional and physical needs, to keep fit and healthy in both mind and body. And speaking of tired, the adage that “a tired dog is a good dog” is about as true as “a tired toddler is a good toddler”. Burning off steam is good. Getting and keeping fit is great. Exhaustion is not, and often leads to a cranky or over-aroused dog, who resorts to behaviors we’d rather not see.

Enrichment should meet an individual dog’s current needs. Preferences vary between individual dogs, but enrichment opportunities should be adjusted to meet the dog’s current needs. For example, a decompressing dog will need easy enrichment while a settled dog may thrive with challenge. A senior dog’s exercise needs will be very different from an adolescent’s. Remember an activity isn’t enriching if he doesn’t enjoy it.

Provide balanced enrichment opportunities. Strive to provide a balance of both low and high intensity mental and physical exercise. The definitions of “low” and “high” are also individual. “High” intensity for a senior might be a short jog across the yard compared to a young dog’s zoomies. It’s a common mistake to focus on physical exercise while underestimating the benefit of mental enrichment. A dog who has had appropriate physical and mental exercise will be a happier, calmer dog, and a more enjoyable companion.

Not all four quadrants may be appropriate for every dog, at least in the beginning. A highly anxious dog may be unable to engage in the higher intensity activities, and some of those may be too much for an easily aroused dog, but the goal is to consistently provide as much varied mental and physical enrichment as appropriate, adding or changing as he decompresses and feels more comfortable and relaxed.

Walking is a typical “go to” for exercising dogs, but there are many other options. If walking is stressful for your dog (or you!), skip it and meet the need some other way.

• Video: Alternatives to Walking your Fearful or Reactive Dog (Dogkind)
• Thinking Beyond Dog Walks (Lizzy and the Good Dog People)

Play is an integral part of a dog’s well-being, and is a great way to provide physical exercise and mental enrichment. Play releases feel-good chemicals in his brain, helps maintain fitness, and provides an outlet for pent up energy. Dog-dog play, dog-human play, and activities that encourage self-play are all naturally enriching, which meets innate needs in a way nothing else can. For dogs who enjoy interaction with other dogs, there’s nothing like a good romp with a doggy pal. Dog-human play can be as simple as a game of tug or fetch, physical training games that are fun and upbeat, like recall or teaching a fun movement trick, or using a toy such as a flirt pole. Interactive food toys are an excellent way to encourage self-play, especially toys that dispense kibble as they move, or require foraging or shredding. Such activities should be part of each day, and can be easily woven into the routine. Exercise and play are intertwined, and are an important part of every dog’s life.

For more information, see Dog Play and Playing with Your Dog.

Video: Canine Food Puzzles (Fear Free Happy Homes)

Provide the right level of difficulty.

• If a dog is stressed, keep it easy! Things to lick are good choices since licking is a calming activity for dogs. This isn’t the time to feed a meal from a challenging puzzle.
• For some toys, the level of difficulty can be increased by freezing it.
  • A Kong filled with dry kibble or room temperature canned food will be easier than one filled and frozen.
• Help the dog if needed. While the goal is to get the dog to build confidence and to work to earn the reward, step in and help if the dog is starting to struggle. He may need help getting started. Frustration is not enrichment.
• Individual dogs vary in the level of challenge that they enjoy.

Keep trying different things.

• Something that is initially too hard for a dog today may be just right in the future.
• A toy that doesn’t work for one dog might be perfect for another.

Mix it up.

• Rotate the toys and games that you use to keep them novel and mentally stimulating.
• Different toys may use different kinds of food – some are designed for dry kibble only while others allow a greater variety of food and treats.
• Provide options for different kinds of activities – sniffing, licking and chewing.

Play safely.

• SUPERVISE! Many food enrichment toys are easily chewed.
• Treat food puzzle toys as you would food bowls. Feed dogs separately and pick up after use to prevent resource guarding. Don’t take toys away from dogs – use the trade or scatter methods.

These are our favorites based on experience with many dogs.

From left to right: West Paw Toppl, Outward Hound Fun Feeder

From left to right: Woof Pupsicle, Kong, Kong Wobbler, Tricky Treat Ball

Clockwise from top: Holee Roller, LickiMat UFO, Bionic Bone

Most versatile:

• Fun Feeder
• Toppl
• Kong

Least likely to be chewed (destructively):

• Kong (black rubber)
• Fun Feeder
• Toppl
• Pupsicle (green or black)
• Bionic Bone

Cheapest:

• DIY (food scatter, towel roll-up)
• Fun Feeder
• Kong
• Lickimats

Longest time to consume:

• Fun Feeder (filled and frozen)
• Toppl (frozen)
• Kong (frozen)
• Woof Pupsicle

Sniffing/foraging activity:

• Food scatter / hunt
• Towel Roll-Up
• Snuffle Mat

Licking activity:

• Toys filled with wet foods (Fun Feeder, Toppl, Kong, Lickimat)

Toys that move:

• Holee Roller
• Tricky Treat Ball
• Toppl
• Kong Wobbler
• Bobs-a-Lot

There can be a trade off to find a balance between “safe” and the items a dog likes to chew or that hold up to his jaws. When possible, use softer items to avoid a broken tooth. If a dog is a heavy chewer, the tradeoff of a harder item may be worth the risk. Some dogs have a preferred material, e.g., wood, plastic, bone.

• Bully Sticks – all dogs love them, but poor dollars-to-duration ratio (expensive, don’t last long)
• Yak Milk Chews – very hard, long-lasting; too difficult for some dogs
• Tracheas – can be stuffed and frozen to increase duration
• Water buffalo horns – softer and less expensive than antlers
• Whole frozen carrots
• Synthetic bones – e.g. Bene-bone, long lasting, several flavors and styles; too difficult for some dogs
• Bionic Bone – stuffed with jerky

Sniffing “obstacle course” – low, open boxes with treats, snuffle mat, etc.

• Make sure to scatter some treats on the floor, too, so he’s not forced to interact with novel items. Video: Free Work with your dog | Pet advice for dogs | Woodgreen Pets Charity