Fearful Dogs

Some dogs have a high level of generalized fear, and it takes special care to help them decompress and find safety. This dog arrives in your home in a state of shock and deep anxiety. They may have suffered emotional or physical trauma, lacked proper socialization as young puppies, or just don’t have the coping skills to deal with great change. These fears likely preceded their rehoming and are ingrained. While often intertwined, fear and anxiety are two separate things. Fear is immediate; an emotion to specific things such as strangers or the vacuum. Anxiety is more diffuse and vague, and focused on what might happen, such as worry about an impending thunderstorm or being alone. Whatever the cause, there are specific things we can do to help these dogs feel safe and settle in.

Your fearful dog may be completely shut down, unable to interact with you or a resident dog. He may tremble, hide, recoil from any attempt at physical touch, or be unable to eat or drink. Many dogs who are fearful have sound sensitivities or phobias. The list is long, but these include fireworks/thunder, doorbells, other dogs barking, common household objects that make noise, such as the refrigerator going on, ice dumping from the ice maker, computer buzzes and whirs, TVs and radios, etc. While such fears may seem silly to us, they are very real to the dog, and represent a physical threat to their safety. Some dogs may be fearful of human contact, and will avoid touch or interaction at all cost. They may use distance-increasing behaviors such as growling, barking, or baring teeth, or retreat from interaction. Even in previously house-trained dogs, house soiling is common, as this is a physiological response to stress.

If your foster dog is fearful to this degree, GBR will provide you with resources and additional help; you don’t have to go this alone. We may recommend an evaluation with a vet or vet behaviorist, and/or a trainer who specializes in behavior. The dog may need anti-anxiety medication in order to be comfortable. Please talk with your Intake Manager as soon as you suspect your new foster dog has this level of fear. Video: “Just give it time.” Will your fearful dog get better with time? (Dogkind)

In the meanwhile, here are some things you can do to help your fearful dog decompress:

You’re safe here. 

  • Create a Safe Space where he will not be disturbed.
  • This might be his crate tucked in a spare room or the laundry room, or a baby gate or other barrier across the door of a quiet room.
  • You may need to build extra layers of safety, such as a x-pen around his crate area, so that you can come in the room to refill water, offer food, etc. while still giving him a way to maintain distance.
  • Sometimes a visual barrier is helpful, a place for him to “hide”. Covering his crate with a sheet or light blanket, or draping the x-pen with a sheet can provide a feeling of security.
  • Provide a soft bed, water, a few soft toys, and easy enrichment toys.
  • Allow him to retreat to his safe space whenever he wants, for as long he wants. Some dogs may stay “hidden” for several days or more.
  • Don’t hover, or check on him repeatedly.
  • Do not try to lure him out with food, toys or verbal coaxing. The goal is to decrease stress, not create pressure.

Video: How to help your fearful dog relax at home (Dogkind)

Is this good for you?

  • Use the consent method of petting and touch with every interaction.
  • This means always giving him the choice about whether or not to approach you, and if/what kind/how much touch he wants. This gives him control over his body and space, builds trust, and decreases fear.
  • Not all dogs who approach you want to be touched. Look for touch-seeking body language, such as leaning in or nudging your hand.
  • Please review this video: Petting Consent Tests movie (Dogkind)

Video: My dog still doesn’t trust me! (Dogkind)

Everything Here Is Free

  • This is not the dog who needs to sit before his food bowl is placed. We want him to feel that it’s safe to begin exploring his environment, and that will take all the energy he has without having to earn a reward.
  • Gently toss treats into his safe space, if your presence doesn’t scare him.
  • If he’s already moving around the house, leave treats in easy-to-find places, like snuffle mats and low boxes in locations he’s likely to be.
  • Provide easy mental enrichment in his safe space, such as a licky mat or bowl, or a Kong slathered with something gooey.

Knock, knock. No, not that!

  • Many fearful dogs startle easily, and the subsequent panic hormone levels (cortisol, and others) can stay elevated for hours to a few days. This has long-term health risks as well as slowing the process of learning that he’s safe.
  • Make your presence known as you approach him or walk past his area.
  • Speak softly to him, shuffle your feet, or hum so he knows you’re there.
  • Be particularly careful not to startle him when he’s asleep, as some dogs have a sleep-startle response that can lead to a bite.

Sleep is healing.

  • Most rescue dogs are exhausted, and need more rest and sleep than we imagine. Fear creates even greater physical fatigue, so the fearful foster needs extra time to rest.
  • Some rehomed dogs sleep for several days straight. That’s okay. Keep the water dish clean and full, put out food at regular intervals, keep an eye on him, but let him sleep.
  • Sleep may be disrupted due to stress. The dog may pace, move frantically or be unable to settle. If this continues for more than a day or so, it may be an indication that anti-anxiety meds are in order.
  • Memory is cemented in deep sleep (REM cycle), so if he’s not able to sleep deeply, he’s not imprinting all the good work you’re doing to help him relax and feel safe.

Let Me Drive

  • Agency is powerful for fearful dogs, as even the tiniest amount of control over things in his environment creates confidence and a sense of safety.
  • Whenever possible, give the dog choices; for example, provide meals in a snuffle mat and puzzle dish, and let him choose; offer a choice of treats, etc.
  • Never force interaction; allow him to approach you and other family members at his own pace.
  • Good Dogs Say No. He has the right to decline physical contact, engagement, or any activity that makes him uncomfortable.

The Relaxing Stuff

Sniffing allows him to use inborn skills to interact with this environment. Licking is particularly soothing, as it releases relaxation hormones in his brain (endorphins, dopamine, oxytocin).

  • Scatter kibble around his safe space, or use several snuffle mats for foraging opportunities
  • Provide at least one lickable enrichment item per day. The dog may not initially engage with it, but keep trying. Many fearful dogs wait until night, when the house is quiet, to investigate their food.
  • Free Work – sniffing “obstacle course” – low, open boxes with treats, snuffle mat, etc.
  • If he’s comfortable going outside, let him choose where to sniff and for how long.
    • Scatter kibble or soft treats in the grass
    • Interacting with the natural world is rewarding, and helps build confidence as he uses his innate skills to explore on his terms. Video: Scent-Based Games for Fearful Dogs (Dogkind)

I See You

  • Brush up on your powers of observation, and spend time just watching him (covertly, from afar). The more you learn about the nuances of his body language, the better you’ll be able to create safe experiences for him going forward, and advocate for him in sticky situations, before he’s in over his head.
  • What doesn’t he like? Decrease or eliminate as many environmental triggers that create stress for him.
  • What makes his eyes sparkle? Add more of these things!

More: Signs of Stress In Dogs (DogsTrust), Body Language Gallery (I Speak Dog), Recognizing Fear and Stress (Forever Hounds Trust)

Slow Is The New Fast

  • Take everything at his pace.
  • Don’t force, coax, or entice him into a new situation.
  • Never use food or toys to lure him into something he perceives as scary.
  • Never use “flooding” to help him get over his fears (think Indiana Jones and the snakes). Immersing a fearful dog in the scary thing in the hopes that “he’ll just get over it” creates a mess. Understanding and respecting his threshold for any given trigger is especially important with fearful pups. More: Flooding & Learned Helplessness (Rescued by Training)
  • When you’re tempted to push him just a little, remember how it feels to be shoved from behind into the deep end of the pool before you’re ready. Be the one who “holds his hand” and says “we’ll go when you’re ready…you’ve got this!”
  • Let his body language be your guide. If you see “hesitant”, slow down. If you see “eager”, take it to the next teensy, tiny level. More: Dog Body Language

Toileting Issues:

Some dogs who have had limited areas in which to potty, such as dogs raised in a puppy mill, may be fearful of toileting on other surfaces, such as grass and bark, and have a singular surface preference, like concrete. A piece of indoor/outdoor carpet can be a good solution for the dog who is comfortable pottying only on the deck or patio. Over time, this can improve with positive association, but for now, you may need to accommodate to meet the dog’s needs. Some fearful dogs may also be spooked by outside noises, such as traffic or wind, and be hesitant or unable to potty when these sounds are present. Choose the quietest area of the yard, deck or patio you can. This might be a small space, confined by a fence or hemmed in by shrubbery, which provides a measure of security. Turning on lights at night may help, although some dogs are more afraid of the light than of the environment. If your dog is fearful of pottying outside at all, you might “import” urine or feces from a friend’s dog, planting the “lure” in a place where you think the dog will be most comfortable. Experiment with adjusting the scenario to find the most successful solution, and stick with that until he has decompressed more.

Additional Enrichment Ideas for Fearful Dogs:

(Adapted from 10 Days of Enrichment for Shut-Down Dogs, Dogkind Training)

Use toys that are easy, quiet and stationary. Toys that roll and make noise may scare him. Provide a variety, and see what he likes best.

  • High value treats, such as freeze-dried liver in a snuffle mat
  • Canned dog food (not chunky or “stew” varieties), pumpkin, spreadable cheese, or meat-based baby food on a licky mat
  • Peanut butter spread on a cutting board
  • Treats rolled in a towel (“treat burrito”)
  • Small pieces of cheese in loosely crumpled paper
  • Semi-moist treats under a towel or small blanket
  • Treats or kibble in TP or paper towel roll with one end pinched closed
  • Crunchy dog treats or kibble sprinkled in grass or the floor, or on a bathmat

More: Enrichment – Food Puzzle Toys and Treats

What About Hand Feeding?

You may read that hand-feeding helps fearful dogs learn to trust humans, but this isn’t recommended in most scenarios. Hand feeding often backfires, because it creates an internal conflict for the already-stressed dog who wants the food but really doesn’t want to approach you. This may actually increase fear, and/or suspicion of food.

When hand-feeding may be useful: If your dog is already approaching you willingly with a soft face, loose body and completely without being lured, you can try hand-feeding. Stop if you see these signs that it’s not okay with him:

  • He becomes hesitant to approach or take food
  • He has fearful body language (ears back, tail down/tucked, body lowered, etc.)
  • He’s stretching his body to take the food
  • He grabs the food and backs away
  • He becomes less willing to approach for treats over time

Other things that may help with fear and anxiety:

  • Calming Pheromones and Supplements. Pheromones are available by collar, spray and diffuser. The most common is ThunderEase (Adaptil). Diffusers are useful in specific areas where the dog spends a lot of time, such as his safe space. They emit a constant, gentle flow of pheromone. Sprays can be used in areas the dog may pass through, or in the car. Note: because the spray is suspended in alcohol, allow 10 minutes or so between application and using the area; the smell of alcohol is strong!  Supplements, such as Composure Pro, may be helpful in the overall treatment of anxiety, but pheromones and supplements alone will not be enough to help a severely anxious dog.
  • Some dogs benefit from wearing a Thundershirt, which wraps tightly around the body and exerts gentle pressure in specific areas, which stimulates the brain to produce soothing hormones.
  • As stated above, these may be helpful components of a treatment plan, but should not be considered stand-alone solutions.

Additional Resources

Dogkind Training – Kelly Lee A certified trainer who specializes in working with fearful, shy and shut-down dogs, Kelly’s website and Facebook page are a wealth of information and helpful resources, and she frequently does live Facebook mini-classes on a variety of related topics.

A Guide to Living With and Training A Fearful Dog, by Debbie Jacobs

Bark! The Science of Helping Your Anxious, Fearful or Reactive Dog, by Zazie Todd

Preventing and Alleviating Anxieties 101 (Fear Free Happy  Homes)