House Training

Urine marking is a normal doggy behavior, but is only acceptable to us when it happens outside, not on the couch or antique rug. Marking is the dog’s way of leaving his signature, a “Fido was here” note. Newly rehomed dogs often urine mark to create a sense of familiarity, much like we might bring a favorite photo or food on a long trip. Indoor marking may occur due to stress, fear, conflict or arousal in a multi-dog household, or a medical condition.

What it isn’t: vindictiveness, spite, or “dominance”; the dog is not trying to get back at you for a perceived injustice, or stage a palace coup.

In addition to the steps listed above, here’s what to do:

• Use management: the dog is confined or leashed to you at all times until the behavior stops, or an underlying cause is found.
• Clean soiled areas promptly, and block off access to frequent/repeat target areas. Scent is a powerful magnet; marking is most likely to recur in the same place over and over.
• Reduce stressors: marking is commonly due to stress or anxiety. Watch your new dog for clues of stress triggers.
  • Noises, such as the garbage truck or ice maker.
  • Sudden or specific movements, such as a raised hand or eye contact
  • Conflict with or intimation from a resident dog
  • Anxiety when left alone
  • Pressure, coercion, punishment from humans
• Evaluate for medical cause
  • If things don’t add up and the behavior persists, seek a vet exam to rule out urinary tract infection or other physical issue
• Use a belly band for male dogs
  • While this doesn’t stop the behavior, it can discourage urination when in use
  • Preventing marking may decrease future behavior
  • Protects the furniture and carpets
• Never punish. This is not willful behavior aimed at you, and stress will make it worse. See above.

Urine Marking: Stop Urine Marking in the House – Whole Dog Journal

These two behaviors are often confused, but the underlying causes are different. In both cases, the dog pees in the presence of a trigger (person approaching, another dog, etc), but submissive urination is a result of fear; excitement urination has its cause in over arousal, and, unless connected with a medical issue, usually resolves after adolescence.

This article has excellent information, including causes, specific behaviors, and effective ways to work with both issues. Submissive and Excitement Urination – UC Davis

A dog who is reverse potty trained only goes to the bathroom when they’re inside. They might be outside for hours, and as soon as their paws hit the floor, it’s finally time to relieve themselves. Some dogs do it in plain sight of their humans, and others wait until they’re alone to lift a leg or squat in privacy, or choose to hide their business behind the sofa or in a closet. 

Reverse house training is most commonly caused by a history of punishment for unwanted bathroom behavior, but may also be due to chronic inability to access an appropriate toileting area, a traumatic experience or fear of something while toileting outside, only having access to pottying while on walks, or surface preference (i.e., dogs raised solely in a kennel environment with only one surface to use). 

Some signs of reverse housetraining:

• Refuses to potty outside no matter how long he’s out
• Asks to come inside for the sole purpose of relieving himself indoors (immediately pees once inside)
• Only goes when you’re not looking and does it in places he thinks you won’t notice, or pees directly in front of you. 
• Looks “guilty” if you catch them in the act of house soiling, and may cower, freeze or try to flee. 
  • “Guilty” looks are actually fear; the dog is reacting to your anger/frustration, and is trying to appease you in order to stay safe. 

How to reverse the reverse: 

• Above all, be patient and compassionate. This behavior likely comes with some emotional baggage, so not only does the dog have to unlearn an ingrained behavior, he has to overcome the negative emotions associated with it. 
• If you can determine the cause (e.g., fear of outside surfaces, wind, dark, etc.) work to desensitize him to those things first, or remove the source of the trigger. 
• Until he’s reliably doing business outside, keep him close: in his crate (if crate-happy), tethered to you or within sight/reach. Once he begins to display consistent appropriate toileting behavior, he can have a bit more freedom, but until then, you’re his shadow. 
• Take him outside every two hours, and after waking, after meals, exercise or play. 
• Designate a consistent potty spot, and take him there each time. 
  • Choose a spot that is safe and low distraction: away from street noise/barking dog next door/out of the path of squirrels
  • Stay away from surfaces that he avoids, such as gravel, bark, pavement, etc. 
• Reward generously – a jackpot of treats and praise – for any success.  
• Use the highest value treats you can, and reserve them for this behavior only. 
• Never punish, scold, yell, or use methods intended to stop the indoor behavior mid-stream, including a shake can or spray bottle. Methods like this will quickly erase any success, increase his anxiety and create an even stronger house soiling behavior. 
• Pee-Mail as a bridge – it may help to have another dog pee or poop in the designated potty area. You can even collect a little sample from a donor dog, and douse the magic area with it.